The Adventures of ESHE The Ethiopian Elephant

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According to the inhabitants this towering, re-locatable, structure can go as high as 12 meters and last from years. Traditionally the bamboos that are used as frames for the huts are cut during moonlight. For insulating the roof of the hut a thatch of false banana Enset , grass and cover of the bamboo stem are used.

Through time when termites destroy the basement of the huts, after having avoided the rotten part of the basement, the whole structure can be lifted and relocated in a different place of the same compound. This practice explains why the hut is first built so high. The older the house the shorter the height. Dorze village visit. Boy from the Dorze tribe on his way to the water well. Transparency in the fog.

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Dorze inspired construction. The kindergarteners were busy applying ideas we gained from our study of Dorze architecture to improve the stability of pine needle structures. The Big Bad Wolf is going to have a surprise when he encounters these straw homes. Like mother, like daughter - sharing the task of turning these tough leaves into a delicious bread. The lady here is grounding those beans in a wooden mortar. The grounded beans were then brewed in a clay pot over sizzling ambers.

The flavor and texture of the brew was unforgettable. These tribals used to be warriors, and had a large Elephant population in their region. However the elephants, and other animals, were forced out of their habitat due to human takeover. The Dorze have since become farmers, weavers and potters. Their typical huts resemble head of an elephant, and serve as a reminder of a bygone era. C4 Lime Tree G7 40 Prime Juice House F1 41 Topia Tej Bet E3 Farenheit F5 44 La Gazelle Piano Bar E6 45 Matti Multiplex F5 Platinum G6 48 Bookworld F1 Bookworld E6 50 Somaliland Office D5 55 Turkish Airlines It feels far removed from the hustle of the city centre.

However, the seal on the deal might be the free sauna and gym. Discounts are common. To get here cross the railway tracks at the end of Meskal Flower Rd and walk down the dirt road for m. With its minimalist and utterly modern design, this budget business-class hotel is hands down the best place to stay in Addis at the moment.

It has glittery art on the walls, highquality mattresses, sound-proofed rooms, flat-screen TVs with satellite channels, great service and a decent in-house restaurant. All the rooms have loud and lovely African art and masks adorning the walls, rainbow-tainted bedspreads and furnishings made of twisted tree branches. The front-facing rooms can be very noisy, though, thanks to the proximity to the road and a loud bar. Peachpink rooms; inviting bathrooms: some with showers, some with bath tubs; art on the walls; cupboards for your gear; a TV; and a safe and quiet location.

Oh yes, we like this one. Unusually for this price all rooms have attached bathrooms. The staff is ever smiling. Approaches are made to couples or groups, as well as to single males. Most commonly, the person approaching you is a young, well-dressed Ethiopian male, often claiming to be a student. The area around the hotels in the Piazza and Churchill Ave seem to be prime hunting grounds for potential victims. He then makes a big fuss trying to wipe it off and in the process relieve you of your wallet.

Another one involves someone waving a packet of tissues in your face pretending to sell it to you. The only drawback might be that the owner only speaks Amharic and two travellers of the same sex are not allowed to share a room. Lucky you! Middle Eastern or Italian? French or Ethiopian? You sit in short traditional Ethiopian chairs, eating from a communal plate on a mesob Ethiopian table. If you feel more adventurous, try the kitfo bets, which are typically ignored by tourists. These restaurants usually serve little other than kitfo minced beef or lamb like the French steak tartare, usually served warmed — but not cooked — in butter, berbere — red, spicy powder — and sometimes thyme.

For places that stand out for their drinks, see p53, while those that make the grade in the edible end of the spectrum are found here. Check out the Ethiopian Cuisine chapter, p, for more information about Ethiopian cuisine and eating etiquette. The soft lighting and intimate surrounds are perfect for your first awkward attempts at injera. The decor in the restaurant is grand and the melange of Indian curries and tandooris is vast. While the menu is varied, ranging from Madras chicken curry to veal medallions in a morille mushroom sauce, its speciality is the beef fondue Birr for two. Its bargainpriced lunchtime buffet also available on Friday evenings is immensely popular with both foreigners and well-to-do locals.

However, you do pay for the location. The food is of course good but maybe not as good as the price tag indicates , but sadly the whole experience can be somewhat marred by the attitude of the owner who seems disappointed that all his guests do not fall into the above fame category! Reservations are wise, but not always honoured. Most people, taxi drivers included, use landmarks in order to enquire about the location of something. When trying to get to a specific place, asking for the nearest big hotel to it, or shopping centre or well-known restaurant, is more likely to garner a result than merely giving a street name.

So, the moral of the story? Get creative when trying to locate something! This is where the well-todo and expats of Addis like to hang out, so you can expect high-quality and higher than normal prices. Food types from around the world are represented here as well as flash Western-style coffee shops by the dozen. How traditional is the food? Try an excellent salad. The French owner works in the kitchen and stalks the dining area checking everything is just perfect.

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And, frankly, it pretty much is. And what a treat it is to taste spicy food with texture and form rather than just heat! There are two-dozen pizzas on the menu — toppings range from anchovies and capers to prosciutto and sausage. They also do the only home-delivery service in Addis. After a flurry of handwork, our injera was beautifully laden with everything from gored gored raw beef cubes with awazi, which is a kind of mustard and chilli sauce to vegetarian fasting food. This is the perfect place for your first taste of Ethiopia. Fasting food is the way to go on Wednesday and Friday. Upstairs is an equally intimate bar.

Feel on top of the world and enjoy the views over the city at this 5th-floor restaurant inside the Boston Day building. The menu, which takes in steaks, Mexican and pastas, spans the world in all its culinary loveliness. The evergreen, ever-lime Lime Tree remains one of the hippest places in Addis to have a light lunch. The menu includes such delights as pita stuffed with tabouli or felafel, and chicken coconut curry, and it sells what we are assured is the best carrot cake in Addis. Christian communities this busy place is a lunchtime institution — queues can form out the door for a table.

The reason they all flock here? Here you can wrap your lips around mughali biryani fragrant rice , tandoori dishes or butter chicken masala — absolutely delicious. There are also great lunchtime thalis mixed meals; Birr80 available every day but Sunday. Buy a big hunk of meat from the butcher out front and have it barbequed up and served with spice and injera or you can just eat it raw and wash it all down with a beer or three.

Big Macs of the Big Apple? Then fill yourself with Big Boy burgers at this evergreen expat fuel stop. Considering the low prices the food quality is surprisingly high. The yetsom beyaynetu variety of fasting foods is perfect for vegetarians, while yedoro arosto roasted chicken and gored gored or tere sega assuage carnivorous cravings.

Half the neighbourhood likes to come here for an afternoon drink. Prices are a bit steep, though. Addis is currently in the grip of a mass spawning of cafes. At the centre of the scene are the Piazza and Bole Rd areas. Coffee is serious business at this great old Italian cafe in Piazza. Beans are also sold by the half-kilo from Birr There are several other branches throughout the city but this one is considered the best.

Caribbean Breeze. Vanilla Fever. The bright and bubbly names and flavours of the cup cakes on sale here are highly appropriate for a cafe that is in itself a bright and bubbly place full of the hopeful and young of Addis. As any good Englishman or woman will tell you, cup cakes are supposed to be subtle! With luscious lassis and creative juices, Lime Tree is a premier place to indulge in liquid treats of the chilly variety.

We downed a lime juice with mint, and it refreshingly pummelled our thirst. However, a growing middle class and increasing numbers of expats have led to some swanky joints, the majority of which are found in and around Bole Rd.


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Small local drinking holes charge Birr20 for a bottle of beer, while established bars can charge up to Birr Most places are open until 2am during the week, and 5am on the weekend. Music ranges from Ethiopian to Western and Indian. Above the glowing green beer bottles that comprise the bar hang masks of all sorts: some historical, some available in any tourist-tat shop. The crowd ranges from expats to well-heeled locals. Tej Bets. Most are open from 10am to around 10pm, but are busiest in the evening. A small flask Birr14 on an empty stomach had our head spinning.

Half-litre Birr34 and litre Birr64 bottles are also available. Jazz Clubs. So big was the scene that Ethiopian jazz even had its own style and name: Ethiojazz. Then along came the Derg and away went the fun. Today the scene is making a slow recovery though a number of jazz bars have closed down in. Those open during the week close around 2am; things wrap up nearer to 5am on weekends. Cover charges vary between Birr50 and Birr at most venues, depending on the day but are sometimes free. Expect to drop a minimum of Birr35 for a beer and Birr50 for a cocktail. It plays a wide range of music and mixes it up with DJs and live bands.

It can get very lively and might not appeal to all. Music ranges from Ethiopian to African hip-hop. Beers are a hefty Birr70 to Birr Cosy seats, red lights and the odd full-length mirror surround the circular dance floor, which usually reverberates with African and Western tunes. Amharic theatre is hard to come by these days, with venues only hosting shows once or twice a week. Traditional music and dance are much more accessible, with many restaurants putting on traditional shows in the evenings. Azmari bets are also atmospheric places to catch both. What in the world is an azmari bet?

For more, check out the boxed text on p Cinema is more popular than ever — even pushing theatre out of most theatres. Most films are in English or have English subtitles some have both! Hollywood showings are normally fairly old. Films are shown daily in three sessions. Unlike Churchill Ave or Piazza, this is where locals do their shopping. Leprosy Disabled Persons Work Group produces and sells beautiful handbags, pillow covers and wall hangings, each emblazoned with vibrant embroidery.

The shop is off Ring Rd, southwest of the city centre in the Alert Hospital compound; follow the signs to the canteen. Selection is very limited. However, petty theft and confidence tricks are problematic. The Merkato has the worst reputation as pickpockets abound — targeting not just faranjis white foreigners but Ethiopians as well. An old ploy is for someone to step blindly into you, while another gently lifts your belongings in the subsequent confusion.

A less subtle tactic now being used involves someone diving at your feet and holding your legs while another pilfers your pockets. You are advised to leave hand luggage and jewellery in your hotel if you plan on visiting the Merkato. Other spots where you should be vigilant include Piazza, where many foreigners get pickpocketed or mugged; Meskal Sq; minibus stands; outside larger hotels; and Churchill Ave, where adult gangs have been known to hang around the National Theatre.

Common gang ploys are to feign a fight or argument and, when one man appeals to you for help, the other helps himself to your pockets. On a personal note, in all the time this author has spent in Addis he has never once felt even remotely threatened. For more information, see also the boxed text on p All its shoes are made using locally sourced natural fibres, hand-made fabric and, for soles, old car and truck tyres, and staff are paid up to four times the average wage in Ethiopia.

There are also numerous internet cafes, but due to the fact that these places close, reopen and change their name at the speed of a megabyte we have refrained from naming specific cafes here. An increasing number of other bank ATMs also accept international Visa cards. When withdrawing cash through an ATM with a foreign card you should select the Credit Card option whether or not you actually have a credit card otherwise it may not work. Travellers cheques can be changed at bigger bank branches but with some reluctance. Also changes cash.

Most have ATMs accepting international cards. It also has some informative brochures about the rest of Ethiopia. Travel Agencies For information on travel agencies in Addis Ababa, see p Websites Addis All Around www. All domestic flights are operated by Ethiopian Airlines www. Schedules change quite frequently and flight durations vary depending on which stopovers the plane is making en route.

Major tourist flights leaving from Addis Ababa are listed in the following table. Note that this is not a complete list of all flights. For information regarding international flights and international airlines serving Addis Ababa, see the Ethiopia Transport chapter, p All these buses leave from the short-distance bus station Map p38; Ras Mekonen Ave. Awasa and Shashemene are also serviced from the long-distance bus station.

Be very wary of pickpockets and bag snatchers here. There are several services to Shashemene and Awasa after the first 6. These puppies have reclining seats, aircon, on-board toilets and even free snacks and drinks. Book tickets up to a week beforehand if possible. It has the following daily services all departing at 5. On Tuesday there is also a bus to Shire and Aksum Birr These buses are air-conditioned and have toilets. Breakfast is included in the ticket price. Book tickets up to a week beforehand if at all possible.

For more details on hiring, see p Minibus With sealed roads now all but connecting Addis Ababa with Bahir Dar and Gonder, private minibus services are starting to crop up. Some charge an additional Birr2 or Birr3 for excess luggage. Blue city taxis to the airport for a local should cost around Birr80 to Birr from anywhere south of Meskal Sq to around Birr to Birr if leaving from Piazza; add Birr20 at night or early in the morning.

From the airport, prices are much higher and normally quoted in US dollars though they accept Birr. Taxi drivers belonging to this association have. The minibuses are a much better bet. Taxi Most taxis operate from 6am to 11pm. Short journeys up to 3km usually cost foreigners Birr40 to Birr50 more at night. If you share a taxi, the normal fare is split between each person. If you want to visit a lot of places in Addis Ababa, negotiate with a driver for a half- or full-day fare Birr for a full day is pretty reasonable. Taxis can be found outside larger hotels, as well as the National Theatre, national stadium and on De Gaulle Sq in the Piazza.

At night, many line up outside the nightclubs. Lucky for them, the hills contain some historic churches one hewn from rock in the 12th century and some remote wilderness. As well as the places listed here, sights further afield outside Addis Ababa that can. A small museum can also be found here. From there another minibus will take you to Entoto Maryam Church.

On the way up you will pass by the Women Fuel Wood Carriers Project, an organisation set up to protect the rights of women gathering firewood on the mountain. Traditional clothing items, hats and baskets can be purchased. Minibuses operate from 5. Journeys cost roughly Birr1.

Minibus stops can be found near almost every major intersection.

To catch the right minibus, listen to the destinations screamed by the woyala attendants hanging out the windows. If confused, ask and someone will point you in the right direction. Though local priests date it back to the 3rd century AD, it most probably dates back to the 12th century. So, perhaps the finest way to see this fantastic country is like an Ethiopian — from horseback. For the truly adventurous it also runs major expeditions a couple of times a year to ride in places as diverse as the remote western Omo Valley or the Gojjam area near the source of the Blue Nile.

Food, accommodation and your steed are included in the price. The church is tricky to find, so ask locals en route most know it as Tekle Haymanot. Finally, a word of warning: a number of tourists have been mugged on the road up to the church. Go with a friend or two. Northern Ethiopia Why Go? Debre Libanos Unlike anywhere else on Earth, northern Ethiopia has the ability to wow you day after day after day. Not to be outdone by human mastery, Mother Nature really let her creative juices flow here. The Danakil Depression, an esteemed destination among adventure travellers, features a permanent lava lake and a bright-yellow sulphuric plain, while canyons and peaks wrinkle the land just about everywhere else.

Though you can hit the highlights in a couple of weeks, there is so much to see and do here it takes three or four weeks for proper exploration.

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The international boundaries on this map serve as indications only. The Ethiopia—Eritrea border awaits formal UN demarcation. Ethiopian Airlines www. Most people who enter northern Ethiopia overland are travelling by bus from Addis Ababa, which sits conveniently at the bottom of the Historical Circuit. The only open border crossing is from Sudan at Metema p The km circular drive through the north is now nearly all paved though still expect some rough sections except between Debark and Shire and even that will be mostly completed early in the lifetime of this edition.

The exception is the 45km from Debark to Zarima, which almost certainly will not. It makes the Blue Nile Gorge seem like just a Sunday drive in comparison. To visit the Danakil Depression, you must travel with a tour company. Though there are no must-sees, some historical and natural sights allow you to break up the journey. Debre Libanos monastery admission Birr was founded in the 13th century by Tekla Haimanot, a priest credited not only with the spread of Christianity in the highlands, but also the restoration of the Solomonic line of kings.

Since his time, Debre Libanos has served as the principal monastery of the old. Many Ethiopians make pilgrimages and some seek out its curative holy waters, said to be good for warding off evil spirits and for stomach disorders. Although no trace of the ancient monastery remains a casualty of the Muslim— Christian Wars , the site is impressively set beneath a waterfall-rich cliff many of the monks live in caves up there on the edge of the large Jemma River Gorge and is a peaceful place to wander.

The present church was built in by Haile Selassie, against the wishes of the local priests, after hearing a prophesy that a new church would ensure a long reign. Besides the usual ecclesiastical items there are Italian guns, giant cooking pots, crowns of past emperors and their wives, musical instruments and an old wooden shackle. A monument in front of the church memorialises the hundreds of innocent priests, deacons, and worshipers who were massacred here by the Italians following an assassination attempt on the notoriously brutal viceroy Graziani in he was later imprisoned by the Italians as a war criminal for crimes against humanity.

Though the local guides insist this small stone-arch Portuguese bridge Birr22 was erected by the Portuguese in the 16th century, it was actually built at the turn of the 19th century by Ethiopians: though in the old Portuguese style. The narrow span makes a pretty picture and the gushing in the rainy season cascade just below it is even more impressive. A coffee ceremony costs Birr per group.

Usually four minibuses run daily from Addis Ababa to the monastery Birr76, two hours. Here a pair of bridges photography prohibited , cross the river. A new Japanese suspension bridge handles traffic while the Italian original is now used by shepherds. Unfortunately the beauty on the southern side is frequently marred by cement company quarries. Plenty of birds and vervet monkeys live in the natural forest blanketing the slope.

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A short trail at the parking area leads down to the shore where a boat makes a good picnic shelter while it waits for permission from the nearby church to begin giving trips on the water. You can camp Birr25 plus Birr for two guards and a lodge is planned. The lake is signed, just m off the highway, 4km before Kosober Injibara.

Tekla Haimanot, descendant of Zadok, the priest who anointed King Solomon, is one of the most revered saints in Ethiopia thanks both to his part in restoring the Solomonic dynasty to Ethiopia and for his miracle-working prowess. He started working his magic even before he was born, when his mother was molested by a pagan king, Tekla Haimanot called forth the Archangel Mikhael hidden inside a thunderstorm who promptly turned the king mad.

For 22 years he stood stock still and prayed until eventually his right leg turned rotten and fell off. Unperturbed he carried on for a further seven years, balancing on his remaining leg. Today what people believe is his right leg is kept inside the Debre Libanos monastery. All have mini-fridges, satellite TVs, little balconies, better maintenance and cleaning, and lower rates.

Selam has a pretty good choice of hotels. The chandelier in the lobby of this large and unmissable place sets a pseudo-fancy tone that continues to the in-room furniture. The suites feature steam bath showers and all rooms have satellite TV. Getting lost is half the fun. Some souvenir shops sell them, but they buy from the makers too. This relaxing town and the scenic lake on which it sits form the first major stop on the Historical Circuit. Some people like to describe Bahir Dar as the Ethiopian Riviera.

In the 16th and 17th centuries, various temporary Ethiopian capitals were established in the vicinity of Lake Tana. It was here that Jesuits attempted, with disastrous consequences, to impose Catholicism on the Ethiopian people. For those Lake Tana monasteries you may have heard about, see p Information on Blue Nile Falls is found on p Lake Shore.

Lounging lakeside is an essential part of the Bahir Dar experience. Made from woven papyrus, they can take huge loads, including oxen! You can also sometimes see them being made at Debre Maryam monastery p Main Market. The catch is brought in by tankwa in the morning and pelicans come to feed on the scraps in the afternoon. Blue Nile Bridge. You can only reach the famous outlet of the Blue Nile by boat see p75 , but you can get pretty close along the Gonder road, 2km past the post office, where a bridge spans the river.

You can see the dam that has ruined Tis Abay Falls p76 and maybe some hippos and crocodiles. There are many tankwa in this area too, though not on the river itself. Its fountain cascading down to the Blue Nile is quite the sight, especially if someone is having a wedding here and has paid to turn it on. The museum h8. Viewpoints both in front and behind offer panoramic views over the lake, river and town.

No public transport comes near here. T Tours The following are noted for arranging boat trips onto Lake Tana. To Tana Hotel 1.

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A2 2 Fish Market C1 3 Main Market C2 6 Ghion Hotel A1 8 Menen Hotel C3 9 Summerland Hotel C2 10 Tsehay Pension B2 11 Walia Hotel D2 14 Desset Resort B1 Mango Park B2 16 Wude Coffee C3 18 Bahir Dar Hotel A2 19 Flavor Juice B2 20 Mango Park The lowest priced rooms lack TVs and hot water. Rooms in front can be a bit noisy. The owner is there daily to keep everything ship shape. TV and the private showers have hot water. Some funky touches, like the goat-skin wall in the restaurant mains Birr43 to Birr81 , brighten up the older building.

The service is excellent and the shady grounds ooze relaxation. Rates include one massage, manicure or pedicure. Desset Resort, which puts you right on the shore, is our favourite lakeside spot, but Mango Park is the most fun and Tana Hotel has the best sunsets. The Balageru Cultural Club serves food, along with laughs. If you want a drink that will knock you off your feet, visit the holein-the-wall araki grain spirit bars near the bus station. Both the habesha Ethiopian and faranji foreigner dishes try the roasted lamb are quite good and the menu is bigger than normal.

A floating barge has a full menu and costs Birr2 entry. Various azmari see the boxed text, p do their thing nightly from around 7. There can be serious. The Post Bus Birr departs at 5. Minibuses travel at night which makes them dangerous and can do the trip in as little as seven hours. Two buses travel to Gonder Birr55, three hours at 6am and minibuses Birr65 go about hourly. For a steep fee, most hotels will call and have the minibus come pick you up so you can avoid the chaotic bus station.

Some travellers prefer to band together and hire a private minibus to Gonder, which can cost as little as Birr Tourist hustlers can be a problem. Wegagen Bank Has a branch along the main road. It stops for loading at Dek Island with. Snacks and drinks are sometimes available, but its best to bring your own. Bikes are perfect for Bahir Dar.

Ghion Hotel has some for Birr16 per hour. Out on the street, such as at the spots south of Ghion and near Zimamnesh Guesthouse, prices are a bit cheaper. A normal trip is Birr2. You can contract one for Birr10 to just about anywhere in the city. Most of the pricier hotels provide a free ride to the airport. For details on getting to the monasteries around Lake Tana, see p Most monasteries date from the late 13th and 14th centuries, though the current church buildings were erected later. If you want help deciphering them, check out Know Your Ethiopian Saints, p Awra Amba tour guide.

Awra Amba village is like no other in Ethiopia. The residents have a utopian world vision of total equality regardless of gender, age, race, social standing, etc , shared responsibility based on ability, and hard work and education as the best path to a good life. They also reject formal religion, though they do believe in a creator.

Most people in his village thought he was crazy, but over time he met some likeminded people and in , 18 of them joined him in founding this village. You may also have the chance to speak to the humble founder. Begging is very shameful here so please avoid giving handouts.

The small restaurant mains Birr has pasta and national dishes. B1 2 Church of Debre Sina B1 3 Debre Maryam B3 4 Dega Estefanos B2 Entos Eyesu B1 6 Guzara Castle C1 7 Kebran Gabriel Women can visit all but a few of the monasteries. B1 9 Martyrs Memorial Monument B3 10 Mitsele Fasiladas C2 11 Mussolini's Stele B1 12 Narga Selassie B2 13 Outlet of the Blue Nile B3 15 Portugese Cathedral B1 16 Susenyos' Old Palace B1 17 Tana Cherkos Tekla Haimanot All the stated journey times are for a oneway trip from Bahir Dar in a 25HP fibreglass speedboat.

Metal boats are cheaper, but slower. See Getting Around p75 for boathire information. The northernmost monasteries at Gorgora are covered later p Walking between the monasteries on this forested peninsula, full of birds and vervet monkeys, is an enjoyable way to spend half a day. Better, in our opinion, than spending long hours sitting in a boat visiting distant.

Most paintings are from the 18th century or later; not the 14th like the guides will tell you. Ura Kidane Meret. Outside its gate is the private Zeghie Satekela Museum admission Birr20; h8am-5pm with a collection of household.

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